By under a quarter inch of diameter on a CIPP liner — a loss no household line notices, in exchange for a smooth, jointless wall that sheds the debris the old rough bore used to catch. Compare slip lining honestly: threading a smaller pipe costs 10–20% of the bore, which is why it's the exception, not the default.
Camera first — you see the pipe before any price is quoted.
About this service
CIPP lining: a new pipe inside the old one
CIPP — cured-in-place pipe — works like it sounds. A felt liner saturated with resin is inverted or pulled into the failed line, pressed against the host pipe's wall, and cured until it hardens into a new pipe inside the old one. Done on the right host, the bore loss is small — under a quarter inch — the joints disappear behind one continuous surface roots can't enter, and the yard survives. It's the strongest option for a line that's cracked, jointed and root-torn along its length but still holding its shape.
The condition in that sentence is the whole ballgame: still holding its shape. A liner cures against the host pipe, so it inherits the host's geometry. Line a pipe with a belly and you've built a smooth new belly. Line a pipe that's ovalled and the liner follows the oval — or wrinkles trying. Which brings us to the Nashville caution, stated as plainly as we can state it:
Ovalised Orangeburg usually can't be lined reliably. Orangeburg — the wood-pulp and coal-tar-pitch pipe pressed into thousands of post-war Nashville laterals — fails by flattening. A liner needs a round host; Orangeburg's failure mode is precisely the loss of round. Companies do line it when the deformation is slight and the camera shows a passable bore, and we'll tell you if yours is genuinely one of those. But the default honest answer for a collapsed or ovalled Orangeburg line isn't lining. It's the next method.